Mt. Kinangop

As a warm-up for a hike of Mt Kenya’s Sirimon and Chogoria Routes in March 2021, I spent a weekend in the Aberdares National Park with friends. We set out as a group of five to hike Elephant Hill and then - weather and wellness depending - to continue on to Mt Kinangop. At 3,906 meters (12,815 feet) Kinangop is the second highest point in the Aberdares, after Mount Satima in the north. I’d hike Elephant Hill several times, but never continued past it to Kinangop. We knew it’d be a long day so we set out before first light.

The “point of despair”, where you first get good views above tree line and realize how far you are from the summit. In reality, a lot of people try to do Elephant Hill as a day trip from Nairobi, and if you don’t get an early start you might get to …

The “point of despair”, where you first get good views above tree line and realize how far you are from the summit. In reality, a lot of people try to do Elephant Hill as a day trip from Nairobi, and if you don’t get an early start you might get to this point - after which there is less shade - just as the day is getting very hot. If you’re not to this point by 8 or 9am, you won’t be up to the summit or Kinangop and back by dark.

Not despairing, yet.

Not despairing, yet.

My favorite section of trees on the way up. The hike to Elephant Hill gains a lot of altitude, so you go through several distinctive types of flaura.

My favorite section of trees on the way up. The hike to Elephant Hill gains a lot of altitude, so you go through several distinctive types of flaura.

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We had extremely clear skies, giving us views all the way across to Mt Kenya - where we’d be hiking in just one more week!

We had extremely clear skies, giving us views all the way across to Mt Kenya - where we’d be hiking in just one more week!

Three of our group summited Elephant Hill and decided to head back to camp, while M and I continued up to Kinangop with our excellent ranger guide, Philemon.

More views of Mt Kenya across the valley on the way up:

The final summit of Kinangop has three “knobs”, pictured here. The true summit is the final one. You can walk around them to the right (east).

The final summit of Kinangop has three “knobs”, pictured here. The true summit is the final one. You can walk around them to the right (east).

The middle of three summit knobs

The middle of three summit knobs

The final summit knob - this is approaching it from the southern (Elephant Hill) side, which is substantially steeper than the north side. If you want a more gradual approach, you can walk around and hike up the north side, though you’ll need to use…

The final summit knob - this is approaching it from the southern (Elephant Hill) side, which is substantially steeper than the north side. If you want a more gradual approach, you can walk around and hike up the north side, though you’ll need to use your hands either way - from the south it’s mostly holding onto rock, from the north it’s holding onto giant tussocks of grass.

It doesn’t look quite as steep looking back down…

It doesn’t look quite as steep looking back down…

A few photos from the summit:

On the summit of Mt Kinangop

On the summit of Mt Kinangop

We descended via the Mutarakwa forest station route, rather than back the way we came. This saves probably 1-2 hrs hiking time, and the need to go back up the saddle to Elephant Hill, but also requires arranging transport back to Njabini Gate (where…

We descended via the Mutarakwa forest station route, rather than back the way we came. This saves probably 1-2 hrs hiking time, and the need to go back up the saddle to Elephant Hill, but also requires arranging transport back to Njabini Gate (where the Elephant Hill hike normally starts) if you need to return there.

Our ranger Philemon saw one (live) elephant far in the distance, but we couldn’t make it out. But we saw plenty of elephant droppings and footprints, this one elephant skull, and lots of sign of buffalo as well.

Our ranger Philemon saw one (live) elephant far in the distance, but we couldn’t make it out. But we saw plenty of elephant droppings and footprints, this one elephant skull, and lots of sign of buffalo as well.

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Hiking down the Mutarakwa side, for part of the path we were stepping around elephant footprints like this one.

Hiking down the Mutarakwa side, for part of the path we were stepping around elephant footprints like this one.

The lower forest on the Mutarakwa side is very beautiful

The lower forest on the Mutarakwa side is very beautiful

Merci, FIFA

This is a French-language FIFA billboard about Ebola:

It has 11 anti-Ebola messages from famous footballers, which happen to be printed small enough to be unreadable from the street or sidewalk.

Not that it would matter anyway: it's on a major road in Monrovia, Liberia, where no one speaks French.

Uganda is beautiful

I've been in Uganda the last few weeks helping with the implementation of a large scale survey: a representative national household survey and survey of drug retailers and healthcare providers, all focused on the availability and usage of essential medicines for childhood illness. The system we've set up is pretty cool, with data collection on Android tablets via ODK meta and real time checks for data quality (by teams, individual interviewers, and individual interviews) and feedback to the survey group, which I hope to write up at a later date. In the meantime, I wanted to share some photos of Uganda, which is really, really beautiful. There's a whole album here, and below are some highlights:

 

Friday photo: Upanga, Dar es Salaam

The view from my (temporary) window, click for the zoomed in view:

This is at low tide -- most of the sand in the distance is covered when it comes in. On the horizon on the right side you can see the line of ships heading into the Dar harbor

Also, Wednesday I was taking a Skype call with a colleague looking out this window and saw a whale in the distance. Having never really lived on the ocean before, that's pretty cool.

Friday photos: Gelada baboons

The Simien Mountains in Ethiopia's north are swarming with Gelada baboons (which aren't actually baboons). Below are some photos I took of them over Thanksgiving break:

And an interesting fact about the mountains, from Wikipedia:

Although the word Semien means "north" in Amharic, according to Richard Pankhurst the ancestral form of the word actually meant "south" in Ge'ez, because the mountains lay to the south of Aksum, which was at the time the center of Ethiopian civilization. But as over the following centuries the center of Ethiopian civilization itself moved to the south, these mountains came to be thought of as lying to the north, and the meaning of the word likewise changed.

Friday photos: Somaliland

I have lots of thoughts on my trip about one month ago to Somaliland, as it's a fascinating place -- highly recommended in particular for students of public policy or development. But those will have to wait for future posts as I'm swamped for now with work, my Masters thesis, and some other projects. In the meantime, this is Hargeisa:

Above, a major mosque. Below, the street scene downtown:

The animal market:

And here's me with a moneychanger and stacks of Somaliland shillings:

Friday photo: Wenchi Crater Lake

Wenchi Crater Lake is a long-ish day trip from Addis Ababa. The former volcanic cone is filled with a lake and hiking trails, and there's even a monastery on an island in the middle of the lake. Here's a panorama shot from near the top of the trail, made from five photos stitched together (click for higher resolution):

Friday photos: Meskel

Last week Ethiopia celebrated Meskel, a major holiday that commemorates the discovery of the "one true cross" on which Jesus was crucified. Meskel Square in Addis is the place to be -- "meskel" means cross in Amharic. Orthodox priests and actors surround the cross (yes, the thing that looks like a Christmas tree to American eyes):

Everyone brings candles, and at dusk they're lit in a slow wave moving across the square:

The roar of the crowd grows until the cross is lit:

Documentation:

As the fire dies down the crowd scattered -- but this drumming and singing circle stuck around for quite a while:

Best billboard ever?

I have no idea whether this is an effective ad... but:

(Also note the address at the bottom: there's no commonly-used system for designating addresses in Addis -- or most road names for that matter -- so directions often simply describe a general area close to some landmark.)

Friday photos

These photos are of the construction site next to my office in Addis -- the quality isn't that great, but I still think they're interesting. Some observations on this site:

  1. progress is slow
  2. manual labor is substituted for capital-intensive technology wherever possible
  3. the scaffolding is made by hand on site
  4. there's absolutely no protective gear (no hard hats, no harnesses while hanging off the flimsy handmade scaffolding), and
  5. women are surprisingly well-represented (at least at this site).

Friday photos

Friday photos may be a new recurring feature on this blog -- while I won't post reviews of every place I go on weekends (or during the week for work), it's hard to resist sharing some highlights of Ethiopia. A beautiful and fascinating country: Medhane Alem, the largest monolithic church in the world, is just one of a dozen churches at Lalibela carved from solid rock in the 14th century AD:

Medhane Alem at Lalibela

Swimming at the "Queen of Sheba's Bath", in Aksum, northern Ethiopia:

Queen of Sheba's Bath, Aksum

More photos of travel around Ethiopia can be found here.